Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
